Traces of Jewish life in Naumburg (Saale), Germany

A picturesque city, with many colourful houses spread around the old city area, Naumburg (Saale) also used to host a small Jewish community, first historically recognized in 1350. 

Close to the central square - markt - the Jewish street - Jüdengasse - was partially rebuilt in the last years and nowadays is part of the usual touristic tours regularly offered to the tourists from all over Germany visiting what is considered one of the most beautiful cities in the center of the country.

Nowadays, there is no significant Jewish presence in Naumburg (Saale) the former Jewish history being remembered by two memorial inscriptions: one in the memory of a pogrom that took place in 1494 and the other to remember the Jews killed during Shoah. 

In 1440, the archives mention the presence of 22 Jews in Naumburg (Saale). Unfortunately, even there was a small number, they were considered threatening enough by Elector Johann Friedrich who ordered their dispersion. The synagogue and the ritual bath - mikwaot - were destroyed. 

After the incident, in the last centuries, the Jews came and go, without establishing a constant high number presence. The few that were living here between 1933-1945 were killed in Shoah.

This stone representation of the 1494 events, on one of the walls of the Jüdengasse is an episode that went on repeat very often in Europe, in Germany and abroad. Innocent people that only wanted to live their life, were forced to leave in the middle of the night, with children and leaving everything behind. When were lucky enough to be able to run. Now, there is a state where Jews can go and live, but apparently, this is not good either, because, it seems, this fight and hate is never ending. 

Where Memory Leads by Saul Friedländer

Saul Friedländer is mostly known for his acribic search for the historical truth into the Vatican Archives, particularly in connection with the WWII, but it is always interesting to explore the life history of the historian. Where Memory Leads is the second installment of his life historical account, exploring his identity post-Shoah as well as its relatively less known relationship with Israel, Germany, France - his cultural identity remains French - and his country of adoption, US.

'I am a Jew, albeit one without any religion or tradition-related attachments, yet indelibly marked by the Shoah. Ultimately, I am nothing else'. He, like the founding fathers of the State of Israel, he belongs to a generation of action, secular and aimed to create an identity shaped by the Shoah. An heritage that still needs to be explored and analysed although meanwhile, a new generation of Jews and Israeli made the choice for a dramatically different identity. '(...) the only lesson one could draw from the Shoah was precisely the imperative: stand against injustice, against wanton persecution, against the refusal to recognize the humanity and the rights of 'the others''. As many of his generation, he is for the 'two state solutions' and refuse to understand the new religious fervor who sees as an alienation from the founding meaning of the state. Interestingly, he just doesn't want to understand the new process, either historically or sociologically, it just rejects it as alien. 

But the book is more than an essay about Israel, and this saves it when the reader might have a different political opinion. It is a book about growing up and coping with the lost of parents, about the lost childhood memories and a life broken into too small little pieces that can hardly come back together. It is equally a testimony of old times, of a different era that the less survivors are the more difficult to understand it. 

Friedländer also writes about life fragility and fears, about personal life decisions and growing out of love. A book worth to read, regardless one's opinions about the current situation in Israel, because it is written with passion and love, although the ideals and visions may differ dramatically. 

Disclaimer: Book offered by the publisher in exchange for an honest review

Traces of Jewish life in Salzwedel, Germany

A colourful little town close to Hamburg, Salzwedel also used to have a small Jewish community. The first traces of such a life were remembered by a note on the wall of the building on Marktplatz no.27: Here it used to function a synagogue to be from 1867 until the infamous Kristallnacht. Nowadys it is a private residence.

Situated on the German Timber-Frame road, Salzwedel succeeded to have a continuous Jewish presence only in the 19th century. The highest number of residents was achieved in 1840: 103 Jews. The number decreased to 64 in 1933. If ones keeps an open eye, can spot possible Jewish traces in the buildings around the central area.

Curious to find out more official historical testimonies, we addressed the Tourist Information Center, from where we were guided to one of the two Jewish cemeteries. Luckily, the door was opened and I could snatch inside to have a look and take some pictures.

The cemetery is situated in a green area, quiet, close to the Christian cemetery. The stones - around 50 according to my counting - were dated until 1945. 

Covered by green bushes, the stones are silent testimonies of a life that it is no more. Attracted by the salt business opportunities, Jews settled around here in the 14th century, but never achieved a flourishing life.

The stones are written both in Hebrew and old German scripts, many of the persons buried here with local German names.

Although empty and apparently abandoned, the cemetery doesn't have signs of vandalism.

The history of Jews in Salzwedel is not too much discussed and as far as I know, there are not noteworthy religious or community personalities associated with this place. Most probably, many came and go, this place being just a stop on the way to other attractive places around, such as Hamburg or Lüneburg.

My camera is wandering over and over again near the quiet stones.

The place is empty, then streets are empty, only the rays of light and the mild wind is wrapping everything in a quiet bubble.

I would be curious to find out more about the lives and stories of the people buried here, but the current knowledge is relatively limited. Only some local archives could be helpful perhaps.

Most frequent mentions about Salzwedel are connected with the WWII tragedies. Nearby, in 1943, it was created the Neuengamme women concentration camp, with a capacity of 1,000 persons that hosted around 3,000 inmates.

The inmates were Jewish and non-Jewish both, mostly from Hungary, but also Greece or Poland.

The memory of the Salzwedel Jews is remembered by Stolpersteine placed in the front of the buildings were the Jewish residents lived once.

Nowadays, Jewish life in Salzwedel means a lot of silence and many memories, many of them waiting to be written.

Part of the traveller's task was to keep the current memory and share is further. Sometimes, this is all we can do and, as for now, it might be the beginning of a new story.