One of the things that regret the most during this Pesach spent in lockdown - for one additional reason than the Corona situation, but more about this maybe one day - is that I cannot explore the various food traditions of other communities around the world - with some elegant limits as I am not so keen to give up to kitnyot, but still...Or the Mimouna together with my Moroccan and Yemeni friends the evening after - although will try the next week to prepare some mufleta for the sake of the good old times...
However, as long as I have the power of my words, I will use it. This time, is for sharing some interesting aspects about how the Persian Jews, one of the oldest diaspora communities with over 2,500 years of traditions behind, are preparing their Pesach Seder.
Persian Jews belong to the same category with the Sephardic/Mizrahim, that is using kitniyot, that for us, the European Jews are completely forbidden. Therefore, their table is rich in rice, choresht (stew), tahdig (crispy rice), grape leaves stuffed with rice and ground beef, fesenjan (sweet and sour pomegranate chicken stew, sweetened with dates), saffron rice with barberries and almonds, almond cake with cardamom and pistachios...The impressive amounts of rice used for the holiday are carefully checked before for any flour that once soaked in water may turn into chometz.
Usually, the seder service, including the Maggid (the central story of the Pesach, of the Jews in Egypt) is read in both Hebrew and Persian. For the communities in a third country, the local language - English, German, French etc. - can be also used.
In some Persian families, during the Maggid, every person takes the seder plate and carries on while singing ha-lachma anya. In normal times, the average Persian seder may count at least 25 persons, so you can imagine how long does it takes until you reach the end of the table.
A very funny custom that apparently is unique among the Persian Jews has to do with hiting - gently, of course - your neighbour with leeks during dayenu. It imitates the lashing the Egyptians to the Jews.
The Persian charoset - the symbol of the mortar used by Israelites for preparing the bricks - is also one of a kind. It is called haleq - also by the Syrian, Iraqi, and Indian Jews - and the recipe includes nuts, dried fruits, pomegranate juice, bananas and cardamom. I have to try it after the holidays. Talking about charoset, I am always in awe about the diversity of recipes all over the world. Some of them are really strange, as for instance in the case of the Jews from Gibraltar and from the Greek island of Zakyntos that are using besides raisins, vinegar, pepper also finely ground brick. Yes, you´ve read it right, brick. The Yemenite charoset is also special, mixing chopped dates, figs, chilli pepper and spicy coriander. My favorite discovery so far is the one used by the Venetian Jews: chestnut paste and apricots. Delish.
Back to the customs of the Persian Jews though. At the first seder, after the table is set, it is usually covered with a cloth in order to protect the food from the negative influence of the ten plagues that Gd inflicted upon the Egyptians.
The end of the Pesach is an occasion to...party. The Moroccan celebrate Mimouna, the Persians call it Shab-e Sal, when yogurt and herb dishes are served. When the Pesach coincides with the festivities on the occasion of the Nowruz, the Persian New Year, the celebrations can be mixed. Therefore, there is also the day after the end of Pesach, Ruz-e Sal when people go outside to celebrate with picnics and getting together outdoors (or it used to be before the Corona). In Turkey, the men of the house are celebrating the end of the matza festival by throwing grass, coins or candies for the children, as a symbol of wealth and wellbeing.
So many different traditions, one people we should be proud to be part of it.
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